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Bladeology Western Knives |
October 2016 | |||||||||||
Dan Martinez |   | |||||||||||
If you were to ask the average outdoorsman of the mid-twentieth century, hunter
or fisherman, to show you his knife, chances are that it would look like one of
these.
Each of these knives were made by Western Cutlery in Colorado. Of course other
knife makers made similar knives, but Western pretty much owned the market from
the mid-30s to about the mid-seventies.
My Dad had one. It’s the one on the far left. My wife’s Grampa Rex had one.
It’s the oak-handled one in the middle.
Most Western outdoorsman’s knives had handles of stacked leather. Grampa’s
knife was no exception. It was handed down to my son Ben. But the leather
washers were all dried out and shrunken. I attempted to treat the leather
washers with neatsfoot oil to plump them up, but they ended up just falling
apart. Remember that the knife is well over 50 years old. I ended up with
egg on my face in front of Ben.
The saving grace for me was due to the unique construction of Western fixed
blade knives. It is a construction that no other knife maker ever used. On
July 24th, 1934, Harlow C. Platts was granted U.S. patent number 1,967,479 on
the bifurcated, or split tang construction for knife making. This is what
began Western Cutlery’s dominance in the field of fixed blade sheath knives
for outdoorsmen.
All the other knife makers used a skinny single tang in the handle, and the
stacked leather washers were O-shaped. Western used their patented double
tang construction with H-shaped stacked leather washers. They claimed
superior strength for this manner of knife construction.
Western manufactured knives for other companies as well, such as Sears
(Craftsman and JC Higgins brands), Montgomery Wards (Western Field brand),
Coast Cutlery, Western Auto, and others. If the old stacked leather handled
knife you are looking at has the metal of the tang visible on the back and
at the belly of the handle, it is of split tang construction and was made by
Western Cutlery.
Decorative colored washers of plastic or fiber were used at the ends of the
handle, with the leather washers in the middle, most of the time. Some were
made with different patterns of stacking, especially when Western made knives
to be branded for other companies.
Though all the leather washers from Grampa’s knife were rotted, most of the
fiber washers were still usable. With the leather washers gone, the fiber
washers could be removed by turning them 90°, then pulling them out between
the split tangs.
Because of the split tang, we did not have to remove the aluminum pommel to
do the repair work. Removing the pins that hold the pommel to the tang would
have been very difficult to do without suffering irreparable damage. There
would be no choice but to remove the pommel on a conventional stacked leather
handled knife with a single tang and O-shaped washers.
When all the washers were removed, a rusty tang was revealed. A wire brush
on an electric drill cleaned that up.
My plan was to fix the knife by replacing the leather washers with wood scales.
But first I would need an important knife-making tool: a small belt sander.
So I searched Amazon and found one that looked like it would do the job. Next
I went down to Woodworkers Source to pick up some small pieces of scrap wood
of the size I would need to make knife scales. The next trip was to Hobby
Bench to pick up a couple of pieces of brass rod. The final thing I needed
was some clear epoxy which I picked up at the local auto parts store.
Since this was Ben’s knife, I wanted him to do most of the work so that he
could take pride in the finished product. However, I guided him closely.
We had to precisely trim the wood to fit between the remaining fiber washers.
We also made two new washers out of aluminum sheet.
After we had our final washer set ready, we trimmed the two slabs of wood to
final length, then drilled through them to take the brass rods. I instructed
Ben to mix up the epoxy and to apply it generously to the insides of the two
pieces of wood and to the space between the double tang. We clamped it all
together and let the epoxy cure.
At this point, things looked pretty ugly, but I knew that there was a golden
swan inside just waiting to be released. This is where the belt sander work
began. In stages we worked our way to the finished product using 100, 240,
and 400 grit sanding belts.
These knives were made with chrome vanadium high carbon steel. That means
that they rust. With the age of these knives, most have been stashed away,
neglected for many years, with their original owners no longer on this earth
to care for them. Most that you will find will show signs of this neglect.
Grampa’s knife was dark and pitted.
You can’t get rid of the pitting, but I have found that Flitz metal polishing
paste does an excellent job of restoring most of the shine to these knives.
Using a ceramic rod, I was able to put a fresh keen edge on the knife. It is
now ready to go back to work for the next 50 years of its life.
Not only did Ben get Grampa Rex’s knife, but my Mom also gave him my Dad’s
Western hunting knife. So to soothe my own need for Westerns, I started
haunting eBay. I bought a few, and then some more. For now it seems that I
have a hard time stopping. The more that I learn about the different models
that were made, the more examples I seem to “need.” So let me run down a few
of them to introduce you to some of the models.
Dad’s Western
When I mentioned to my Mom that I was exploring the world of classic Western
hunting knives like Dad used to have, then described what these looked like,
she mentioned that she still had Dad’s old knife. It was on display, under
glass in her living room, along with all of her other “Old West” type of
decorations in the house.
As you can see, it was never cleaned up, just displayed as she had found it.
There was white paint splattered on the handle, and the tip was broken off.
The leather washers were quite aged, and had shrunken unevenly. The blade
had a significant amount of black rust, but no orange rust.
For whatever reason, she decided to hand it down to Ben instead of me. I
guess that he has a longer run ahead of him than I do or something.
So I re-profiled the tip on my new belt sander to repair the broken point.
I lightly sanded the leather washers with the sander to even them up somewhat.
I gave the blade, the finger guard, and the pommel my Flitz treatment, and
was able to clean off the white paint. I treated the leather with leather
dressing. Finally I gave it a fresh paper-slicing edge, and now it too is
ready for the next fifty years.
The only thing is, I haven’t been able to figure out what model number this
particular Western is. The blade is a touch over 4 inches long, with an
overall length of slightly more than 8 inches. Best I can tell, based on
some old ads I found, it could be a Model L52, but I’m not sure.
The tang stamp reads:
I believe that this tang stamp dates the knife from between 1934 to 1950.
From what I’ve been able to learn, the tang stamps stopped mentioning the
patent after 1950. It appears that these early knives were not stamped with
a model number designation.
I was able to procure another knife of this pattern, but it is marked:
There is no doubt that this knife was made by Western. I was only able to
find this Coast Cutlery and one other Western Boulder example of this pattern
on eBay since I started looking. It is not common at all.
Model 648A
Okay, now it’s time to explain the Western model numbering scheme. The first
character denotes the handle material as follows:
F – Black Beauty series - Alternating aluminum and black fiber spacers
H – Imitation Stag Horn (Delrin)
L – Stacked Leather
P – Colored Smooth Plastic
W – Wood
2 – Imitation Pearl
3 – Brown or Golden Shell Composition
4 – White or Imitation Ivory
5 – Genuine Stag Horn
6 – Imitation Jigged Bone (Delrin)
7 – Ivory or Agate Composition
8 – Genuine Pearl
All handle materials were certainly not available on every blade pattern at
any given time. Some materials were quite rare, and many were never offered
on certain knife patterns ever.
My example is a Model 648A. The model number is stamped into the top of the
brass finger guard. The 6 denotes the Delrin imitation jigged bone handle
scales. “Jigged” means that an irregular pattern of traction grooves is cut
(in the case of genuine bone) or molded (in the case of plastic) into the
handles.
The “48” denotes this blade pattern. In the case of the 48 pattern, there
was an A variant, a B variant, and for a very brief time, a C variant. They
were actually different sizes and blade shapes, but Western chose to designate
them all as variants of the 48 model. Go figure.
Originally, there was a 48A both with and without the “blood groove”. The
blood grooved version was called the 48ABG. Eventually the non-BG version
of the 48A was dropped and the blood groove became standard. From then, the
BG designation was dropped and all 48As had the blood groove. That’s more
detail than you wanted to know, I’m sure.
I think the 48s were popular for all-around outdoor use. They could be used
for general purpose camp chores, from cutting rope and line, to cutting food.
They could be used for cleaning small game and fish. They were stout enough
that you could even use one to field dress a deer if you wanted to.
The tang stamp on my 648A reads simply:
This dates it from 1961 to 1977.
Model L66
Although the L66 is the most commonly found version of this knife pattern, I have
seen F66, W66, and 666 versions of this knife. There may be others.
The story of the changes in the L66 over the years is the story of the history
of the Western Knife company. I’ll give you a highly abbreviated version here.
Western Cutlery began in 1911 when H. N. Platts sold his interest in W. R. Case
& Sons Cutlery and moved west to Boulder Colorado. There he established Western
States Cutlery. Most all knife making operations in the U.S. were in and around
New York and Pennsylvania at the time. Platts saw an opportunity to serve the
interests of western miners, ranchers, and outdoorsmen with a western based knife
factory.
At first, Western States simply purchased parts and some complete knives from his
contacts back east and sold them under the Western States name, and these were mainly
folding pocket knives. As time passed, more and more knife parts were manufactured
in Boulder, until Western pocket knives began to be 100% locally made. But it
wasn’t until the early 1930’s when Harlow Platts, son of the founder, came up with
the patented split tang design, that Western fixed blade knife sales took off.
These sheath knives did indeed find high favor with westerners and they eventually
reached national distribution and popularity with outdoorsmen everywhere, helped in
no small part I’m sure, by their association with the “rugged West.”
The first Western sheath knives featured a round or mushroom shaped pommel which was
common with other knife makers at the time. But then Western came up the with the
“saddle horn” or “birds head” shaped aluminum pommel, which proved to be quite
popular and was soon copied by most other knife makers.
During WW2, Western’s production, like most other U.S. industries, was devoted almost
100% to supplying knives to the troops. Western knives were never official government
issue, but unit commanders had the leeway to place purchase orders directly with Western
to equip their troops. Western knives were also widely available at the PX or BX for
private purchase.
In 1956, the company’s name was shortened from Western States Cutlery to simply Western
Cutlery. In 1957, the plant moved to a much larger facility in the Boulder Industrial
Park. The 1960’s were a time of great growth, both in the number of products offered,
but also with Western’s facilities.
Western Cutlery moved from Boulder to Longmont, Colorado in 1978. But the writing was
on the wall. Increased competition from overseas in the 1980s prompted the Platts
family to sell Western knives to Coleman in 1984. Western knives were then marked
Coleman-Western.
That did not last very long, as in 1991, Coleman sold the Western knife making concern
to Camillus. All U.S. knife making companies were under tremendous pressure at this
time from overseas competition. Camillus went bankrupt in February of 2007, taking the
name of Western knives with them.
Later that year, the trademarks and intellectual property of Camillus were purchased by
conglomerate Acme United. So Camillus knives, and a recently reinvigorated line of
Western branded knives can be found on the market today. But today’s Western knives
bear no relation to the famous split tang knives of Western’s heyday.
So now let’s go back to the Western L66. There were basically three generations, or
constructions of the L66. I call these the 1) Boulder; 2) the Longmont-Coleman; and 3)
the Camillus generations. The basic L66 blade shape remained the same across all three
generations, however the handle construction differed.
The Boulder generation uses the classic Platts split tang design. The back of the
handle is a straight-line continuation of the back of the blade. The metal of the
tang is visible at the back and belly of the handle. The saddle horn pommel is affixed
to the split tang with two cross-pins, one through each of the tangs.
Somewhere around the time that Western made the move from Boulder to Longmont Colorado,
they had a change of heart concerning the use of stacked leather with split tangs.
They changed the design of all of their stacked leather handled knives to single tang
and O-shaped leather washers, just like everyone else in the industry. They kept the
split tang design for the other handle materials such as wood and Delrin (plastic).
Their catalogs now contained the comment, “Because of the special qualities of leather,
this knife is made in single tang only.” Maybe by this time, there were enough old
knives out in the field, that the weakness of the center bridge of the H-shaped leather
washer after aging had become evident.
In the Longmont-Coleman era knives, the pommel was affixed to the now single tang with
a single steel cross-pin through the aluminum pommel and through the tang. The handle
now was not a straight-line continuation of the back of the blade, but stood “proud” of
the back of the blade by a little bit. The finger guard at the base of the blade was
still brass as it was in the Boulder-era knives.
All Longmont-Coleman era knives were marked with an alphabetical date code starting in
1977 with A. 1978 was B, 1979 was C, and onwards ending with 1991 = O. Camillus did
not continue the date coding after their acquisition of the brand.
The Camillus version of the L66 is identifiable by an aluminum finger guard replacing
the brass of earlier versions. Additionally, the aluminum butt pommel was no longer
pinned to the single tang. Instead, the end of the tang was round in cross section
and threaded to accept a brass nut which is visible on the bottom of the saddle horn
pommel. During production, the tang end and brass nut were ground down flush as part
of the final shaping of the aluminum pommel.
The Western “Baby Shark”
The standard blade length of the Shark was 6 inches, but 8 inch and 5 inch variants
were also produced. The blade design was a beefy clip point with a wide blood groove.
The 5 inch version was popularly known as the “Baby Shark,” and was a favorite with
naval aviators.
After the war, the knife continued to be produced but was now called the L46 to align
with their standard naming conventions. Brass and aluminum was again used for the
finger guard and pommel. The various blade lengths were designated by appending a
dash number, such as L46-5 for the Baby Shark variation.
My example is actually a Western Field knife, made for Montgomery Wards by Western.
I do not know the Western Field model number, but this is clearly a Baby Shark pattern
knife, identical to a post-war L46-5.
Here is what the previous owner had to say about the knife in his eBay listing:
Model W36
Not only is it my longest Western, with a blade length of 5½”, but it’s my thickest
Western at .180” at the spine. It features a full flat grind blade profile. It is a
Longmont-Coleman era knife with a date code of G for 1983. I believe that all of the
W-series knives were made using this beautiful dark rosewood for the handle scales.
The W36 was a little rusty when it came to me, but as you can see, it cleaned up nicely.
Interestingly, I later picked up a Boulder L36 in skeleton form for repair (sold with
no leather washers since they had rotted off over the years). The L36 is exactly the
same in blade size and shape, but it is noticeably lighter since the blade thickness
is only .120 inches.
I know what you’re thinking. When I get obsessed with something I go completely
overboard and you guys have to suffer through another one of my almost-encyclopedic
newsletter stories. But I hope that you have found this at least a little bit
interesting. I also hope that I’ve inspired at least one of you to go find Dad’s or
Grampa’s old Western and give it a fresh shine and sharpening, and maybe take it out
with you on your next trip into the great outdoors.
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