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Cheap Scout | October 2001 | |||||||||||||||||||
Dan Martinez |   | |||||||||||||||||||
Alright. I've restrained myself by not mentioning Old Russian Rifles
for two whole issues, but now I'm breaking the fast. Our subject today is the rifle
in the photo on the right, my first "Scout Rifle."
A lot of you probably have some idea of what a Scout Rifle is, as pioneered by the
legendary Jeff Cooper. The most familiar aspect of the Scout Rifle concept is the
forward-mounted scope. But there's more to a Scout Rifle than simply mounting a
scope over the barrel, rather than in the conventional position over the receiver.
Much more.
So besides the forward-mounted scope, what are some of the other elements which
constitute a "proper" Scout Rifle? Come join me while I sit at the Guru's knee:
"Modern technology enables us to produce a rifle which need not sacrifice either
power or accuracy to convenience. The new-wave rifle is neither more powerful
nor intrinsically more accurate than the rifles of the past, but it is much, much
handier - shorter, lighter, and quicker to operate. The current guideline is a
length limit of one meter and a weight limit of three kilos. (This weight is
measured with all accessories in place but with the weapon unloaded.) Immediately
these limitations point us toward short actions, short barrels, compact sights,
and synthetic stocks.
A further feature which distinguishes the modern scout rifle from its predecessors
is the telescope sight, but that in a certain particular mode. The modern scout
uses a low-power telescope mounted just forward of the magazine well. In recent
decades, progress in the development of telescope sights has been to a certain
extent negative in that telescopes, instead of becoming stronger, smaller and
faster to use have become larger, more cumbersome, more fragile and almost
necessarily mounted too high above the bore.
For those who have not tried it, an explanation of the advantages of the forward
telescope is in order. First, and most important, the forward glass does not
obscure the landscape. With both eyes open the shooter sees the entire
countryside as well as the crosswire printed on his target. For this reason
it is important that the magnification of the telescope be no greater than 3X
(some hold that 2X is maximum) in order to avoid excessive disparity between
the vision of the two eyes. This forward mount, properly used and understood,
is the fastest sighting arrangement available to the rifleman.
There are those who think that a glass of low power is necessarily less precise
for long-range precision work, but we have not found this to be the case in any
sort of realistic test. There are many additional advantages to the forward
telescope mount. It is out of the way when the rifle is carried at the balance.
It may be mounted as low over the bore as the diameter of the bell permits. It
avoids pinching between thumb and bolt handle when the bolt is operated. It
permits stripper loading if desired. It greatly facilitates single-loading with
eyes on target. It completely eliminates "telescope eye." Without exception,
those who have tried the forward mounted glass in a full course of rifle training
are unanimous in their conviction of its superiority."
Jeff Cooper, "The Guru"    
A guy who calls himself "Fr. Frog" on the internet
(http://www.frfrogspad.com/),
a Gunsite Academy alumnus, gives a good basic summation of the Scout Rifle concept:
"By the definition of the Scout Rifle Conferences held under the auspices of Jeff
Cooper, the scout rifle has been defined as a general purpose rifle suitable for
taking targets of up to 400 kg (880 pounds) at ranges to the limit of the shooters
visibility (nominally 300 meters) that meets the following criteria:
Weight-sighted and slung: 3 kilograms (6.6 lb). This has been set as the
ideal weight but the maximum has been stated as being 3.5 kg (7.7 pounds).
Rifles that do not meet all of these specifications are technically not "scout
rifles." Thus rifles of this general design in calibers other than those stated
above are not true scout rifles but actually "pseudo-scouts." However, even
though Steyr Mannlicher (and now Savage) are making production rifles of this
general type (as well as some wild variations) they are under no legal obligation
not to call their deviations "scouts" as a marketing tool. Thus the Steyr .376
Scout also known as (and probably better referred to as the ".376 Dragoon"
although Jeff dislikes the term) nor the forthcoming .223 variation are true
scout rifles. For that matter neither are the custom made scout-like rifles
made up in .30-06, .375 H&H, or what ever caliber. However, there are many
parts of the scout design that can be handily used on non-scout rifles."
Hopefully, the foregoing has provided the reader with a relatively thorough
grounding in the attributes possessed by a proper Scout Rifle. Jeff Cooper
worked with Steyr-Mannlicher to bring the first and finest factory Scout Rifle
to market. The Steyr Scout is a masterpiece of modern firearms engineering,
and that fact is reflected in the rifle's price, over $2000.
With this project, I have created a rifle which meets the definition of a
Scout Rifle to maybe 80%, for $350, and you could do it too, if you wanted
to, for even less.
The base platform for my Scout Rifle (or is it really a Pseudo Scout? - we'll
get to that later) is a Model 91/59 Mosin Nagant carbine. All M91/59's started
life as long M91/30's. The exact history is a little murky, but it is believed
that the M91/59 was born when the Russians went into a rifle refurbishment
program starting in 1959 and on into the early 60's. By this time, shorter
rifles were contemporary, so during refurbishment, they cut down their older
M91/30's to carbine length and in so doing, created a new variation of the
Mosin Nagant.
My particular M91/59 specimen was originally manufactured (as an M91/30) in
1943. During the war years, production was naturally very pressed. I also
have a standard M91/30 which was built in 1943. But the first thing you
notice about the long rifle is how rough the receiver finish was left. It
sort of looks like a beaver carved it out of a chunk of wood with his teeth!
They were in a hurry to get rifles out the door in 1943, so a fine finish was
considered an unaffordable luxury.
However, the receiver finish on the M91/59 is satiny smooth. The original
1943 date stamp is somewhat faint and shallow, which leads me to believe that
they cleaned up the metal finish as part of the refurbishment process when
they rebuilt the rifle into the M91/59 configuration.
I found the '59 at Big 5. The rifle was in overall excellent shape. It
looked like it had never been used since the re-arsenal job. The wood was
beautiful. The swirl of the wood grain underneath a clear yellowish-orange
lacquer gave the stock the delicious look of butterscotch. The lacquer had
chipped off in a few small spots, and there were a few minor compression dings
and shallow scratches, as you might expect of a rifle which had been stored
away for the last 40 years or so.
The bore condition is pretty good, but you can tell that it's not new. The
lands are shiny, but the grooves are slightly "frosty", but certainly not
dark. For only $120, I consider the rifle a great buy!
In this year's May issue, I discussed my first Mosin Nagant, the M44 carbine.
The M91/59 at first glance, looks very much like an M44, but there are some
key differences. In fact, when I saw the 91/59 on the rack at Big 5, I told
the manager, "I'd like to take a look at that M44 Mosin Nagant." He played
it coy, and said, "I'm sorry. We're all out of M44's right now." I had to
blink my eyes, because I was staring right at the Mosin Nagant carbine
behind him. Finally, he let on that it was an M91/59, not an M44.
The most obvious difference is the lack of a built-in bayonet on the 91/59.
It's surprising how much of a difference that makes in the feel of the rifle.
Without the extra weight out front, the '59 feels so much livelier in the
hand, and the balance of the piece is so much better.
But it's the difference in the rear sight that makes the 91/59 particularly
suited for "Scouterizing." The M44 and the earlier M38 carbines have true
carbine sights. The rear sights are shorter in overall length and they are
not graduated to as far a distance as the M91/30 rear sight. The 91/59
retains the M91/30 rear sight, though the distance graduations beyond 1000
meters have been scrubbed off. For Scouterizing purposes, the important
thing is that the sight base on the 91/59 can be easily removed from the
barrel. Those on the M44 and the M38 cannot.
I've had a Burris revolver scope mount lying around in a drawer for a number
of years. I was so happy to finally find gainful employment for it. I took
the Burris mount and the cutoff sight base to a local precision welder. For
$20, he made the two pieces into one. The job wasn't perfect, though. The
Burris mount was slightly angled on the sight base. But, because the Burris
mount has windage adjustability in the rear ring mount, the angle was easily
tuned out. The scope sits nice and low. The ocular bell is about ΒΌ" off the
front receiver ring. Though it appears to, the rear of the mount does not
contact the fat part of the barrel. A piece of card stock can be slid between
the rear of the mount and barrel. This is a very solid and secure scope mount
setup.
I decided to use a Simmons 2x pistol scope. I've used this model of scope on
a couple of different scoped handguns over the years, with never a problem.
This scope has a minimum eye relief of only 9 inches, just about ideal for
Scout Rifle purposes.
I contracted for a bent sniper bolt body for yet another M-N project rifle,
an M91/30 PU sniper, but when the bolt came in, I put it on the Scout just
for fun, and decided that I liked it there. The turned down sniper bolt is
a nice added ergonomic feature. I guess I'll need to get another bent bolt
for that sniper project.
After I finished sanding the stock smooth, I wanted to figure out how to
re-create the original color. I started by staining the white wood with a
rosewood stain. The wood sucked up the stain like a thirsty desert traveller.
The reddish color covered the grain pattern pretty evenly, not allowing the
grain to show off. I grabbed some 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper and dipped it
in some paint thinner to wet sand the stock. This was effective in allowing
some white to show between the darker wood grain stripes.
My next step was to throw some Golden Oak Watco Danish Oil Finish over the
stain. This color of oil finish is very yellow. I was hoping that the yellow
over the red would get me that butterscotch color I was looking for. After a
couple of coats of the oil finish, the stock started looking like . . . well,
golden oak . . . which really wasn't so bad, but it wasn't quite what I was
looking for.
So I grabbed another can of Watco off the paint shelf - this one was Dark Walnut.
I needed to darken the tone up a little. With the previous coats of oil finish
already into the wood, I was confident that that the Dark Walnut would not soak
in to overdarken the color. So with three coats of Dark Walnut over four coats
of Golden Oak over the wet-sanded rosewood stain, I didn't quite get the original
Russian butterscotch, but I was quite happy with the end result.
But I wasn't finished yet. I like to finish up with a polyurethane wrapper to
stabilize the wood, keeping it waterproof and simple to care for. Five coats of
satin poly spray completed the job.
In creating this Scout, there was one thing I was not willing to do -- I was
not interested in making any irreversible changes to the gun such as chopping
the stock or cutting the barrel. I wanted to be able to put it back to original
configuration if I ever wanted to. Yes, I chopped the sight base, but the sight
base is easy to replace.
On the other hand, I did want to get as close to proper Scout Rifle parameters
as I could. But my unwillingness to make any significant changes led to a major
violation of the Scout Rifle specs.
My spring fish scale says that the Scout weighs a full nine pounds, or 4.1 kg,
which is .6 kg over the weight limit. I did the best I could to put the rifle
on a diet. The upper handguard was jettisoned along with the barrel bands and
the barrel band keeper springs in the stock. The cleaning rod was also set aside.
But I was not about to put the rifle into an ugly plastic stock as Cooper prefers.
Let's say that you don't care about maintaining the ability to put the rifle back
to original. What else could you do? You might saw off the lower handguard part
of the stock. You could turn the barrel down to a slimmer profile. You could at
least cut the barrel back another inch or so to lose the front sight mount.
Here's another violation of the Scout Rifle specs: the barrel length is 20",
giving the rifle an overall length of 40" - These numbers are over-length by one
inch each.
Scout Rifle specs would prefer the rifle to have some sort of backup iron sight
capability, but I just couldn't get there with this rifle. The hooded front sight
was clearly visible through the scope and proved an annoying distraction. So I
also removed the front sight by drifting it out of its dovetail.
So, if we review the Scout Rifle specs to see how this M91/59 Scout measures up,
we find that my rifle meets many of the specs, but violates some key parameters:
If the rifle didn't blow past the weight spec so badly, I wouldn't feel embarrassed in the least claiming full Scout Rifle status for mine, but I'm afraid that I'll have to settle for the Pseudo Scout title. Due to the fact that my case of Russian Fever rages on, I'm still very pleased with this handy little woods carbine, despite a little extra weight.
Here's the cost breakdown:
If you lose the bent bolt, substitute a 2x BSA pistol scope ($50 from Midway), and don't refinish the stock, you could save $120. Yes, you too could have your very own, very competent (Pseudo) Scout Rifle for only $230! Now that's what I call a Cheap Scout!
(Related story: "... Pull Those Pistols ...")
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