Someone once said that the road to hell is paved with good intentions. Well, I beg to
differ. It is labeled Forest Road 82B on the Coconino National Forest map and it is
paved with bowling ball sized rocks (some much bigger) from beginning to end - a total
of 10.3 miles. The ground for miles around the San Francisco peaks in Arizona is
covered in igneous volcanic rock. It's like a field of pock marked, extra-large, rough,
pointy, black bowling balls, and the 82B road just happens to be the shortest route
across it from Lake Mary road (paved with asphalt) to our elk hunting area in unit 5BN.
This all started about 31 years ago when my son, then only eleven years old, and I
started elk hunting on the backside of Jaycox mountain - which is really just a couple
of hills covered with Ponderosa Pine. We took three elk in five years in that area but
saw the archery success rate continue to drop each year from 24% to 7%. So we moved
to another unit.
But in 2023 I really wanted to get drawn for elk as I'm now 75 (and since it takes about
four years to get drawn). I may not have many elk hunts left so, while I made 4A bull
my first choice, I wanted good odds for my second choice and made that a 5BN cow tag,
and that's what I got drawn for. I figured that maybe they had come back to that area.
Somehow 30 years had erased the thrill of driving back there. Not only is there the 10.3
miles of 82B but there is also an additional 3 miles of road that is even worse to get to
our camping spot. The good news is that, with the exception of a couple quads, no other
vehicles came near our spot in two weeks.
Back in the early years there used to be an elk trail that wound around the East side of
Jaycox, so in early June, I drove back there with a 50 lb. salt block. I put it in a
daypack and took it to a spot on that trail to encourage the elk to spend some quality
time there. A friend of mine, Kent Fleming, from Munds Park, whose son goes to our church,
rode out there with me. We picked a good spot for the salt, with some fresh elk sign and
returned to Phoenix. That is the first two trips on the 82B.
In early September I drove out by myself to see if there was any action at the salt and
to check out a tank near there that we had named Cooley tank because it was not on any
topo map. The tank was dry but the action at the salt lick was terrific.
There were three trails that came to it, the ground around it was pummeled to a powder and
the salt had large, deep, lick marks in it. And, in case you're wondering, there was elk
sign (poop) around and no cattle. So far, so good. I drove home to Phoenix with visions
of elk in my head, now making 4 trips on the beloved 82B.
I drove back out the Thursday before opening Friday, set up camp and set up a ground
blind on the backside of a very large deadfall 30 yards from the salt. So far I haven't
heard a single bugle and, with the archery elk season starting late, on the 15th, I had
expected to hear much more.
Opening morning, before daylight, found me in the blind, all camoed up, Scent Shield on
my clothes and a drop of earth scent on each boot. I saw one lone bull walk up the hill
off to my right and then one lone cow, about 80 yards back in the trees. A short while
later there were four bulls together in a bachelor group near where the cow had been and
then... nothing. Nothing came in to the salt. No more elk. No bugling. But I did have
a beautiful fox walk right by me not four feet away.
I sat the blind in the evening until after dark. Then sat the blind Saturday morning.
Saw and heard nothing.
There was a tank on the topo, about a mile away to the northeast, called Tower Tank, which
I had tried to find with the truck following the “roads” on my scouting trip but didn't
see it. So, that afternoon, I decided to use the GPS and hike to it. I found the tank.
It had lots of water and elk tracks but all of the tracks were old. I hiked back to camp
and then sat the salt again that evening. No elk. No bugling. But I did have two foxes
walk right through camp and say Hi.
Sunday morning (the 17th if you're keeping track) I sat the salt again. Saw and heard
nothing again so I decided to drive down to Tower tank with a pop-up blind and then spend
the evening there. That blind, even though it has backpacking straps, is too heavy and
clumsy to carry downhill for a mile over the boulder strewn roads. I no sooner had driven
100 yards when, all of a sudden, my steering wheel had no effect. I stopped the truck on
the hill, spun the wheel both ways and, nothing. It turns out that the transfer bar
(center link in the Toyota manual) had broken - snapped in two.
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The truck is a 1988 Toyota 4Runner with 226,000 miles that I have had since new. It has
driven on countless 4WD trips, hunting trips, fishing trips, scouting trips - in short, on
the worst roads imaginable. It has never let me down. I have pulled out Ford F-250 4WD
trucks, Jeeps, Quads, Chevy Z71s, you name it. This was a first. And it would be a long
hike out. But fortunately we had cell-phone coverage out there. And, fortunately, I was
close to camp.
So I called my friend Kent who also has a (newer) 4Runner and he headed out from Munds
Park to rescue me. He had already planned to camp a few days with me during the hunt
anyway so he was ready to go. It's one thing to navigate the "roads" through PJ
(pinion/juniper) country when it's light out, but when it's dark, it's almost impossible.
He already had maps of where I was and directions to get there but it was well after dark
when he arrived at my truck. We ate dinner by the campfire and then spent the night in
camp.
We took a look at the salt the next morning and then Kent drove me and all my camping
stuff to his place in Munds Park where we spent the night. We checked on the broken part
at O'Reilly's Auto Parts in Flag and they wanted $400 plus several days to get it. I
decided to check back in Glendale. So, since he and his wife were going to Glendale the
next day anyway, they drove me to my home in Glendale where I unloaded all my stuff and
ordered the center link from Auto Zone for $300 and they had it ready by 3:00 the next day.
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I spent the next four days at home, took a much needed shower and was able to go to church
on Sunday. On Monday morning at 6:00 Pastor Jim, who I've known for 40 years and hunted,
camped and hiked with, picked me up in his 2017 Tacoma and we drove out to my truck. He
had one flat (LF sidewall) on the way out on the road behind camp. It took only 15 minutes
to change the tire but it took 3 hours and both of us plus both of our tools to fix the
4Runner. It was not a small job.
The center link connects the steering box Pittman arm on one end to the idler arm on the
other end and to both of the tie-rod ends (also the steering damper). It broke right next
to the Pittman arm - therefor the loss of all steering. A Pittman arm puller was necessary
to pull the arm off as well as all the other connections to the link. It deformed one of
the threaded ball joints so we had to file the threads down with my SwissTool in order to
get the nut threaded back on. But when done, steering was restored and we drove to camp
and had lunch before he left to go back to Phoenix.
The story should end here. Sorry, but it doesn't. As Jim drove back down from camp, he
lost the road. The road is mostly a path between trees - sometimes it is clear and
sometimes you have to guess. It is more of a suggestion. And it is often more rocky and
bumpy than the non-road. Anyway, he drove a ways through the PJ looking for it, had another
flat (RF sidewall) and called me on the phone. So, here we were. Jim could not drive
anywhere and wasn't sure where he was and I couldn't find him. He knew he had passed
Cooley tank but that's it. I drove over a mile down the road and then came back without
finding him. Then I remembered Life360.
My wife and I have this app on our phones called Life360. With it we can see where
each of us is at any time. It's really handy. So I told Jim about it. He installed it on
his phone. I added him to my family and, voila, I could see where he was on my phone. Since
my truck, fortunately, was now running, I drove to his truck, we put the two flat tires in
the back of mine and headed back to camp. It was getting dark so we ate dinner, sat around
the campfire, I played a few songs on the guitar to serenade what few elk were in the area
and then slept in the tent. It was a beautiful night - bright stars and large moon. It
would have been nice to hear some bugling.
We got up the next morning and hiked up to check the salt block and saw what appeared to be
several fresh new tracks. Then we left the camp set up (no one comes up there anyway), drove
to Flagstaff so Jim could buy 2 new tires and drove back to his truck, replaced the tires,
and Jim left there for Phoenix and another trip down the 82B. I waited till he called from
the paved FR3 then hiked to Tower tank and sat till dark. Nothing seen or heard. As I left
the tank in the dark my headlamp quit. I had a spare flashlight so I used it to get the spare
batteries for the headlamp and then hiked back to camp. I only lost the road twice. So I got
back to camp late and went to bed.
On Wednesday morning (that would be the 27th), I hiked back to Tower tank early and sat until
10:00. Nothing, no elk, no bugling, and hiked back to camp. Since the tracks at the tank
looked old and the ones at the salt looked new, I went back to the salt for the evening. No
bugling or elk seen for 3 days.
There was one day left in the season. I decided to sit the salt that morning and then pack
up and leave around lunch time. At 8:30 I saw one cow, again, through the trees and at about
80 yards. I waited, expecting her to make her way to the salt, but then I saw she had a calf
with her. I won't shoot a cow with a calf (yes, there's a story there). Then, as I waited I
saw there was also a forky bull with them.
I stayed until 10:00, went back to camp, packed up, ate lunch and got home at 4. Gas at
Arcosanti was $3.99, at our corner station it was $5.19! What's with that??
All told, we made 12 trips down that miserable 13 miles of road. I made 8. Kent made 2 and
Jim made 2. Not sure what the moral of this story is but you can rest assured you won't find
5BN on any elk application of mine in the future.
If it had not been for good friends who sacrificed their time and vehicles, my truck might
still be out there. I am thankful for that. And for great weather, my SwissTool, Verizon
cell service, and for the beauty and serenity of the outdoors that God so graciously allows
us to partake of. We are fortunate indeed.
Whether it was the extended hot summer we had or some other factor, I don't know, but I don't
believe the rut ever started while the archery elk season was open. At least not in that area.