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| Camping in Yellowstone | August 2018 | |||||
| Gerhard Schroeder
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A few weeks later in Montana it was a similar situation, but the river waters were
receding. There I had access to a smoker, and all trout cooperative enough to bite
and stay on my lures got that smoking deal. I had brought plenty of mesquite saw
dust.
Friends Ed and Linda, whom we had canoed down the Missouri with the summer before,
came up with a new invitation. For this year they had applied for and obtained a
camping permit on Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone Park. Sounds simple until the
details are explained. Put in is at Lewis lake, then paddle across its three miles
of open water. Then paddle up the small stream that flows out of Shoshone and into
Lewis. Note that this is against the current. And finally paddle along and across
Shoshone for a good 5 miles to reach the camp site we had reservations for.
It all went according to plan. Crossing Lewis Lake went fast, and without wind
whatsoever.
Paddling up the connecting stream at first was just like being on a lake. But after
about a half mile we could ‘feel’ the flow, and moments later the current was too
strong. Lewis and Clark were idiots. Sooo, step out and walk, dragging the canoe
behind. Water was never worse than knee-deep, but after a good mile of this dragging
and staggering against the stream I was happy to finally see and get to Shoshone Lake,
and back into the canoe.
Fishing Shoshone was a little disappointing. Aside from dealing with the midday wind,
paddling against it, then fishing while the breeze blew me back, absolutely nothing was
biting the spoons I offered. Yellowstone regulations demanded that lures be lead-free,
which ruled out my beloved Rooster Tails. The next morning, with calm waters, I could
see the trout on occasion. When I offered my golden spoon nearby, one lake trout showed
immediate interest. But not enough to devour it. So, I slowed down the retrieve, and
then sped it up. I watched that trout pursue the lure, open its large mouth, and “fish
on”! It did not fight too much, despite its 19 inch length. It was also the only one I
could catch before the winds returned. Doesn’t matter, it was the first ever lake trout
for me.
That evening, once the lake was calm again, fishing improved. We released them all
because it was after dinner, and we did not want to wrestle with lowering and hoisting
the ice chest just to put a few fish inside. It was then, of course, that I hooked my
largest trout so far. The fight lasted several minutes. When the exhausted fish finally
surfaced, it was a large brown. For sure larger than that 19” lake trout. But I had
nothing to measure him with. So, I can’t count it towards my objective to catch a 20+
inch trout.
The next day, just after lunch, Ed was on the lake to try for trout. I was just being
lazy in my camp chair.
That’s when a bear showed up. An odd feeling, seeing it 14 steps away from me (I
stepped that off afterwards). To warn the girls I yelled “BEAR!”, which made him run,
only to stop right near our tent. So I yelled “Mary, he’s right by our tent!” But
she wasn’t in there, instead yelled back from somewhere near the shore. Then Linda,
in their tent, also yelled something. All that commotion, from three different
locations, I assume made the grizzly hightail it out of there. He did depart running.
Then, only then, did I get a clue, did the smart thing, and retrieved the bear spray
from inside the tent. And yes, from then on that spray was always close at hand
Back near Bozeman they have rivers! This time the favorite was the Madison. It has
one section where trout fishing is simply fantastic. But, like everything in life,
nothing worth having comes without some sort of struggle. You can get to that
fantastic river section only by boat. By a boat that can make it through this:
Called “The Kitchen Sink”, apparently because just about everything ‘goes in’ (here
showing only the beginning section; it got wilder quickly). Do not even think about
a canoe here. Ed’s 14ft inflatable almost flipped in those rapids, rated “4” that
day because of the increased flow. I had asked him ahead of time what “4” meant.
He responded with “5 is a waterfall.” In hindsight, it was surely stupid to have
done that without helmets. Just prior to those rapids the trout were indeed biting
like you’d want them too. In all the excitement we took no pictures. Or we had the
phones sealed away. Anyway, a few miles downstream the Madison is rather mellow,
and so was the fishing there. But beautiful indeed!
Finally, here is a sample of the fruits of Linda and Mary’s hike, viewing the
Gallatin River. Did I go up there? A man has got to know his limitations! But
I’m seriously considering another Montana visit, in September. Haven’t been there
at that time of year.
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